Røros, Day 2--Martnan Begins!

Rørosmartnan is the whole reason we're HERE, specifically, rather than someplace else in Norway.  Sheila has a dancer friend who lives here part-time, so knew a bit about it from him.  Unfortunately, he's not able to be here this year---icy hills aren't kind to a brand-new hip.

The winter market has been a going concern at least since the 1700s, with an official royal decree in 1854 that established it as always to be the next-to-last Tuesday in February.  The opening cermony is at noon in front of the museum (the old copper mine), and people start arriving quite early to assure a good spot.  We were very lucky with the weather, it being about 2C (35F) and partly sunny....but for two hours of standing on ice and more or less in one place, it still required double or triple wool socks in our heavy boots, double longies underneath, warm layers, and windproof layers.  And hats.  And at one point, even face masks (got a bit breezy for awhile).

We found what we thought would be good spots on the "grandstand" (made of snow...), but when they did a sound-check it was REALLY loud, with multiple speakers aimed at the not-yet-arrived crowd, so we moved around to a spot with only one speaker-stand pointed at it.  This turned out to be good on several levels...there was a fence to lean on, we were right down close to the dancers and the horses, and we could still hear quite clearly.  Understanding the speeches in Norwegian was another matter...we both caught bits and pieces, but it didn't really matter that much.

Lars finally got his camera out of its case, so hopefully the quality of these pics is up from what Sheila gets on her phone.

Staffers--the leather was worn by the miners so they could sit in the mine and not get dirty!

Hans Vintervold--mayor of Røros and the owner of the farm where we're staying!

Hans introduces Hanna Geiran, the Director for Cultural Heritage, who will officially open Martnan

3 of the featured dancers up on the stage were all young folks

If only we could get them to join our groups at this age!  He's dancing with his mom....

Back to Sheila's phone for the view from our location.  You will notice some people are in bunader (Norwegian folk-costumes), and some are not.  Anyone that knows how to dance Rørospols may participate, with or without bunad.  The pols dance is very much a living tradition here! And yes, they are in fact dancing on ice...

Maybe even better as a video?

There were more speeches, and a skit, and then what has been the main event since 2003....the entry of some 80-90 horse-drawn sleds, representing the old connection between the two copper-mining towns Røros and Falun (Sweden). This takes re-enactment to a whole different level, as many of the drivers have come the 400 kilometers (250 miles) from Falun entirely by sled, following the old pathways (which had to be restored for the pupose).  Some have been on the road for two weeks, in the short days of a Nordic winter.  Others have joined in as the group passes, from various towns along the old trade route, such as Särna and Klövsjö, both in Sweden. Still others have come from around Norway--Selbu, Fron, Tydal, for example. The entry of the drivers is the high point of the day.  Later, they are treated to a welcome feast!

Sheila got a bit of video of this as well.

This variant of the Norwegian flag, which incorporates the Swedish flag in the upper left quadrant, was originally used when Norway was under Swedish rule (1814-1905).  This section was removed in 1899, as Norway began to agitate for independence.  Now it is flown at events like this, to signify the bond between the two countries...in this case as exemplified by the trade between Røros and Falun.

Then we noticed that we could go up to where the horses were having a well-deserved rest, for some up-close and personal contact.  The drivers were friendly and happy to answer questions, but the horses only wanted their lunch.

Snowshoes for the horses

A Norwegian fjordhest...and possibly a Dølehest as well.

So tired...

There were some great views of the town to be had from the tops of the slag heaps!

Back across the stream and down into town, stopping for a warm-up in the church--a breeze had come up while we were up top, and it got chilly quickly.

Compare today's street scene with yesterday's...

Quite by chance, we wandered into one of the bakgårder ("back yards", set away from the street but enclosed by buildings), just in time for one of the horses to be brought in and put in its stall.  An unusual color--dapple chestnut?  No...I just looked it up.  It's called "silver dapple", being a sort of silvery overlay on a darker coat.  Apparently a fairly common mutation in the Nordic breeds.

That pretty much did us in for today.  Driving out of town on streets crowded with pedestrians who pay no attention whatsoever to turn signals or back-up lights....or cars in general...was a bit stressful.  It's now snowing lightly, blowing heavily.  Hoping to finally get onto our skis tomorrow!